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Being Rebellious

Graduation Technique for Short Profile, Long Top Hair

What: Cut hair at an elevation below 90 degrees

How:

  • Use the narrow side of the comb
  • Comb hair with tension
  • Cut hair freehand

Aim:

  • Build up volume
  • Short hair supports long hair
  • Hair falls in neat layers

 

Before   Before
step 1

step 1
Guideline for graduation and cutting guideline

  • Create a ½” deep section at the side from the temple through to the ear
  • Cut freehand, parallel to the section to achieve a soft contour line
step 2

step 2 Graduation

  • Section the second section diagonally, approximately ½” wide
  • Use the previously cut section as the guideline
  • Hold at a 45-degree angle (to the head) and cut to create volume
step 3

step 3
Continue the layering to behind the ear

  • Utilize diagonal sections to create symmetrical, soft progression of graduation
step 5

step 4
Blend through to the nape

  • Take diagonal sections through to the nape
  • Comb at a 45-degree angle (to the head) and cut parallel to the section to create softness
step 5

step 5
Graduation

  • Continue taking diagonal sections that are thin enough so the guideline below is visible
  • Cut the previously established elevation
  • Work through to the middle back of the head to create flowing graduation at the back of the head
step 6

step 6
Blend the side graduation to the top of the head

  • Overdirect sections
  • Utilize diagonal sections
  • Maintain the previously established graduation to achieve graduation and blending with the top of the head
step 7  

step 7
Blend top and sides

  • Comb diagonal sections carefully
  • When cutting, direct the sections back slightly
  • Sections are directed back so that the hair at the front is longer
  • Be aware of finger position - it determines the progress of the cutting line to the front. The lower the fingers are positioned, the longer the hair at the front.
style step 1  

step 8
Blend through the parting

  • Take horizontal sections through the parting
  • For the longer side, overdirect towards the shorter length
  • Cut or blend; round-off the point
  • To create soft progression and get rid of possible strong angles
style step 1  

step 9
Nape using "comb & scissors"

  • Use comb and scissors when the hair is dry to remove possible stray hairs and to achieve a clean finish.
style step 1  

step 10
Ear contour

  • Point cut to ensure that the hair falls softly
 

After

This haircut serves as the foundation of various hairstyles.

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01 | 06 | 2009
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